How to choose the perfect winter coat

Men's and women's coats: the king of winter

When temperatures drop, a coat is not merely a functional garment: it becomes an indispensable ally for combining warmth, comfort, and elegance. A good coat enhances the wearer, protects against the elements, and defines the entire look. Choosing the right one requires careful attention to fabrics, styles, lengths, colours, and sartorial details.

In this article we want to consider all the most sought-after and best-loved types of men's and women's coats, catering to style needs that range from casual to occasions requiring greater elegance.

Types of coats, characteristics, and fabrics

In the world of tailoring there are countless types of coats, which can differ in characteristics such as colour, material, and cut, as well as details like buttons, pockets, and zips. To help navigate the choice of the ideal coat for enhancing one's figure, we have put together a short guide to choosing a coat for both men and women.

Men's coats: styles and characteristics

We begin this mini guide to choosing a men's winter coat by distinguishing between the single-breasted coat – characterised by a single row of buttons and a clean, minimal line that makes it versatile and suited to every occasion – and the double-breasted coat, recognisable by its double row of buttons and wide lapels, a symbol of classic elegance and strong personality.

The classic men's coat is the most versatile style, ideal for transitional weather and for wearing over any outfit, whether casual or formal. Often made in lightweight wool or wool-cashmere, it offers elegance and understated refinement. The trench coat, on the other hand, is made from cotton or waterproof gabardine, with a belt and epaulettes, making it ideal for rainy days and the in-between seasons. The trench coat can be short or long, with or without a liner, and with zip or button fastenings.

Discover the single-breasted waterproof men's trench coat with inner gilet in ice white, ideal for every season.

The pea coat (peacoat) is a short, hip-length, double-breasted coat in compact wool that brings a nautical and casual feel while retaining an innate elegance. The duffle coat, with its toggle fastenings and hood in thick wool, was originally a naval coat and remains perfect for informal and outdoor looks.

Il Lanificio reinterprets these silhouettes through iconic pieces such as the men's midi double-breasted coat in wool and cashmere blend, featuring pointed lapels, structured shoulders, and a detachable chest panel that shields against the wind. As well as the quilted wool coat in camel, a timeless piece with a high collar and modern cut.

Men's coats by fabric

Fabric is a determining factor when choosing a coat, both from a stylistic and a seasonal perspective. Natural fibres offer the right balance between warmth, breathability, and durability.

The men's coat finds its finest expression in styles made from wool and in premium wool and cashmere blends – fabrics that combine warmth, softness, and resilience. These are natural fibres that ensure breathability and comfort, helping the garment retain its shape over time while enhancing its silhouette. Wool is the quintessential classic material, ideal for facing winter in style; the addition of cashmere lends a softer hand and unparalleled elegance, perfect for a coat built to last for years.

Alongside these fibres, other fabrics are also used more broadly for coats: technical cotton or gabardine, for example, are found primarily in waterproof trench coats; alpaca or mohair may be chosen for particularly soft and distinctive finishes; while synthetic blended fabrics are used in industrial production to reduce weight or improve weather resistance. However, when it comes to men's coats of excellence, the combination of wool and cashmere remains the essential benchmark.

Investing in a quality coat means opting for a piece that will stand the test of time, developing a refined patina. Il Lanificio selects premium fabrics and tends to every sartorial detail, from the inner lining to the hand-finished seams.

Women's coats: styles and characteristics

In a woman's wardrobe, the coat is an indispensable piece for facing the cold season in style. Its function is not only to protect against the cold, but also to enhance the silhouette and add personality to the outfit.

The women's single-breasted coat is a great classic that combines simplicity and refinement. Featuring a single row of buttons and a clean silhouette, it can fall to the knee or mid-calf. It is the most versatile style: perfect over a tailored suit for the office, over an elegant dress for an evening occasion, or with a casual jeans-and-trainers outfit.

The women's double-breasted coat, on the other hand, features a double row of buttons and wide lapels, making it a piece with strong character, ideal for those who prefer a more structured look. It commands presence and pairs beautifully with knee-high boots and cigarette trousers, as well as midi skirts and turtlenecks.

The camel coat has now become a symbol of timeless elegance: it brightens the face thanks to its warm and sophisticated colour and is particularly beloved in the autumn season. Il Lanificio offers styles in wool and wool-cashmere that combine femininity and comfort. It lends itself to formal looks with tailored dresses and heels, as well as more casual combinations with jeans, soft jumpers, and white trainers. A word of caution, however: camel does not suit every complexion – or rather, it is worth evaluating the specific shade of camel in question and checking how it works with your personal colouring. Very fair skin with cool undertones calls for cooler colours (grey, navy, or a cool-toned camel), while warm undertones allow for bolder, richer camel shades.

The long coat, on the other hand, is more enveloping and dramatic, and can fall to the calf or even to the floor. It is the style that most elongates the figure, perfect for tall and slender women or for an outfit with heels. Il Lanificio offers variations with a waist belt and side vents, which move with the body and enhance the waistline.

The short or midi coat falls to mid-thigh or just above the knee, giving a more dynamic appearance. It is the ideal choice for petite women, as it does not weigh down the silhouette and pairs easily with both elegant and casual looks.

If you are undecided between a short and a long coat, this article might be just what you need.

Finally, the women's trench coat, made from technical fabrics such as gabardine, is the perfect piece for transitional weather. It can be worn open for a relaxed look, or belted at the waist to accentuate the figure. In light or beige tones, it remains a timeless style icon.

Choosing a women's coat by fabric

As with men's coats, women's styles also find their finest expression in wool and wool-cashmere blends – fabrics that ensure warmth, softness, and durability. Wool is a timeless classic, while cashmere adds lightness and a precious hand that makes the garment feel luxurious and comfortable.

Alongside these, other fabrics more broadly used include:

• Alpaca and mohair, which add volume and softness for cosy, enveloping coats.
• Cotton gabardine, typical of waterproof trench coats.
• Technical blended fabrics, used to lighten the garment or increase its resistance.

In Il Lanificio's coats, the choice of raw material is always oriented towards high-quality natural fibres, crafted with artisanal care to ensure an elegant and long-wearing garment.

Choosing the ideal coat is undoubtedly a very personal decision, but we hope that with this brief guide it will be a little easier to decide which piece to invest in this winter!